Vegan leather: apple, pineapple, mushroom, responsible alternatives are possible

Cuir vegan : pomme, ananas, champignon, des alternatives responsables sont possibles

GEO magazine talked about plant-based alternatives to animal leather two years ago. Since then, their visibility has grown, but not enough yet.

Small warning: the article I reproduce here wrongly speaks of "vegetable leather", an improper expression in this context, since vegetable leather is animal leather tanned with vegetable products to replace chrome and other chemicals. It is more eco-friendly, but not much more ethical.

Here is what GEO writes:

Less polluting than synthetic leather, "vegan leather" is developing thanks to the reuse and transformation of several plants such as grapes, apples, pineapples and even mushrooms.

An ecological and respectful alternative to traditional leather tanning, which consists of transforming the skin of certain animals via chemical treatment, "vegan leather" recreates the appearance of leather using materials of plant or synthetic origin.

For several years, the fashion industry as a whole has been singled out, considered one of the most polluting in the world. In France in 2019, 7 million "finished" leathers were produced by tanners and leatherworkers. A creation that requires the use of intensive livestock farming, leading to deforestation issues, high water consumption, the use of highly chemical products to soften and treat the skins, not to mention animal welfare, often forgotten by these large-scale production behemoths.

Vegetable leather, a less polluting “fake leather”

Many fashion brands are therefore investing in the "faux leather" niche, driven by a search for global meaning and by the growing ecological awareness of consumers.

But while synthetic leather is a vegan alternative that guarantees that no animals were exploited in its manufacture, it is not, however, eco-friendly. It is "composed of 100% polyurethane, a fossil fuel that is particularly harmful to the planet," Slate points out in an article published on April 6, 2022. Indeed, the two components of this material are derived from chemistry and petroleum.

Please note that the terms "vegan leather" and "vegetable leather" should be put in quotation marks because they are not of animal origin. The National Leather Council (CNC) also points out that the term "leather" is governed by a decree prohibiting the use of this term to describe an alternative material to animal leather, even if it is visually similar.

"Mushroom leather"

In a study published in September 2020 in the scientific journal Nature , scientists suggested manufacturing more "leathers" made from fungal biomass such as mycelium, the vegetative apparatus of fungi that is usually found in the soil. The material, called "Muskin," is naturally water-repellent and permeable.

"In addition to being more environmentally sustainable to produce than leather and its synthetic alternatives, as they do not rely on animal husbandry or the use of fossil resources, pure biomass -based leather substitutes are also biodegradable at the end of their lifespan," detail the study's lead author, Alexander Bismarck, and his team from the University of Vienna .

"Apple leather"

Apple Skin is made from apple waste from the industry. It is transformed into a powder before being mixed with polyurethane. "Apple leather requires only 40 to 50% plastic and even reduces greenhouse gas emissions by reusing food waste," Slate points out.

"Grape leather"

It is obtained from the residues of viticulture, commonly called grape marc: the skin, seeds and other residues. As for "apple leather", they are then transformed into a powder mixed with vegetable oil and polyurethane.

"Pineapple leather"

Made from pineapple leaves, "Piñatex" was developed by the Spanish company Ananas Annam. "It is intended to be thrown away, we do not use additional crops, water, pesticides, explained Carmen Hijosa, the creator of this vegetable leather, to France Info in 2020. We remove the impurities from the fibers which are transformed into a felt mat. We finish the product in Spain with natural pigments that respect the environment, without bad chemicals."

Article to be found here:

https://www.geo.fr/environnement/cuir-vegan-pomme-ananas-champignon-des-alternatives-responsables-sont-possibles-209162